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More than 1,000 miles of coastline, 1,244 islands, ten Unesco world heritage sites and eight national parks. These are just a few of the reasons to love Croatia — the exact moment you’ll fall head over heels may be a little harder to quantify. Perhaps it’ll be the meal of sardines grilled in a little olive oil and enjoyed at a harbourside taverna in one of the many seaside towns that dot the Adriatic coast. Maybe it’ll be the afternoon you spent wandering the knotted maze of streets in a medieval hill town and chancing upon that ramshackle little bar, where the locals welcomed you in with a glass of Croatian wine. Or the long, lazy day you went island-hopping along the Dalmatian coast, stopping to jump into emerald waters and explore hidden coves. The only certainty is that, whichever part of Croatia you fall for, it’ll be the start of a life-long love affair.

Main photo: Rovinj, on the Istrian peninsula (Getty Images)

All trips should include the medieval town of Dubrovnik, the so-called “pearl of the Adriatic”. Get your bearings with a walk around the city walls encircling its ancient heart before diving in and exploring its labyrinth of marble-paved streets.

The Dalmatian coast is an excellent choice if you want a bit of everything: cocktail-fuelled beach parties on Hvar; hiking on Brač; wine and olive oil-making on Korčula; peace and quiet on Vis; and the natural wonders of a national park on Mljet. Small coves lapped by turquoise water, historical stone villages and excellent cooking, from fish stew to slow-cooked lamb, are givens across the archipelago.

Knowing that wolves, bears and lynx stalk Paklenica national park only adds to its allure

Once you’ve had your fill of the coast, head inland to discover a different side to the country: Krka National Park and, further north, Plitvice Lakes National Park — home to a network of sapphire pools and tumbling waterfalls accessed by walking trails. If you’re reluctant to pull off your hiking boots, continue north to another national park, Paklenica, a wild corner of the country with deep gorges and limestone mountains to tackle. You’re unlikely to see them, but knowing that wolves, bears and lynx stalk the park only adds to its allure. Finish in Zagreb, Croatia’s thoroughly modern capital made up of art galleries, rooftop bars, coffee roasteries and street markets built upon Roman foundations.

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The choice of accommodation is pretty endless here, from atmospheric old villas where your alarm clock is the call of the village rooster to modern seaside resorts with infinity pools and wellness centres. Whichever you choose, be sure to book well in advance if you travel to Croatia in the high season. Up until fairly recently, the most characterful places to stay in the country were to be found in private accommodation, with owners renting out apartments or rooms in their family homes. These still exist, and can be a great way to experience local hospitality. On the coast this can mean scoring a charming room in a seafront property, where you can fling open your window shutters and fall asleep to the sound of the waves washing against the harbour walls.

Don’t miss the chance to stay in a boutique hotel on a winery, with your bed only a few steps away from the vines

Private accommodation has now been joined by boutique hotels, many converted from heritage properties — giving you all the facilities you’d hope for alongside a bit of architectural history in the form of exposed stone walls, ceiling beams and flagstone floors. Don’t miss the chance to stay in a boutique hotel on a winery, with your bed only a few steps away from the vines. Croatia can do glitz too, in modish hotels such as the Riva in Hvar Town, with Hollywood-themed rooms opening out to views of the super-yachts in the marina. Or take to the water yourself, with many of the major cruise lines offering Adriatic adventures.

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The spotlight in Croatia falls most often on its intricate coastline and stand-out national parks — but there are quieter corners and simpler pleasures to experience in the northwest of the country, in the province of Istria.

Bordering Slovenia, this is a land of gentle beauty, where mists swirl round ancient hilltop towns, and olive trees and vines cloak terraced fields that have been tended to by the same families for generations. Local produce will be a highlight for you here, from silky olive oils to truffles foraged from oak forests, salty sheep’s cheese and wine from indigenous grapes.

Motovun is an unbelievably handsome 14th-century town that curls up a hill above the Mirna River Valley

Find yourself a spot on a shady terrace outside a family-run konopo (pub), call into a winery for a tasting, or sit by the fire in a dark old tavern and feast to your heart’s content. There are ample opportunities to get your hands dirty if you come in autumn too, with the chance to join the hunt for the region’s prized white truffles. You could spend several days tracing the narrow winding roads round Istria, meandering from one medieval hilltop settlement to another. Three to aim for are Motovun, an unbelievably handsome 14th-century town that curls up a hill above the Mirna River Valley, Grožnjan, home to artists’ studios and a lively summer calendar of cultural events, and sleepy little Oprtalj, a tumbledown village of cobbled streets and ancient stone houses.

May and September are good bets, with great weather, but fewer crowds than July and August. The mild autumns are perfect for visiting the forested north of the country.

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