The science of longevity
Jennifer George on the latest cutting-edge skincare products
When writing about aesthetics, it’s not always best practice to focus on what’s new. New can mean untested, unproven or, occasionally, something old wrapped up in shiny new packaging. But new can also mean exciting and game-changing, thoroughly researched and tested. For instance: a tranche of skincare ingredients whose names might be unfamiliar but whose results are gaining traction.
Exosomes are a good example. Used topically in-clinic (applied to the skin, not injected), they are nanoparticles (about 1/800th the size of a cell) that act as communicators within our cellular systems. They are derived from stem cells, in many cases taken from the umbilical cords of animals — although in the UK they are mostly plant-based. When they are applied to the skin they move around like messengers, activating and encouraging older cells to act “young”, boosting cell turnover and slowing the ageing processes. Essentially, they encourage the skin to regenerate itself. In a peer-reviewed article in the American National Library of Medicine this year they were described as having several abilities for skin-tissue regeneration, including for collagen synthesis and regulation of inflammation. Another study found the results of their use to be almost 75 per cent more powerful than retinol, the previous go-to for cell rejuvenation. While some products are becoming available for use at home, the most potent formulas are available only in medical clinics. Dr David Jack, an aesthetic doctor and early adopter of exosomes, advises to look for treatments that apply exosome-filled serums through microneedling, which creates tiny channels in the skin that allow the exosomes to more effectively reach the dermal cells.
In his version of this, ExoTech, a vegan exosome serum is spread on the skin before it is microneedled to push the serum into the deeper layers. A second layer of serum is added for an additional boost once the “channels” are open. Results are not instant, he says — this is about longevity and regeneration, it is not a quick fix — but clients usually see their skin texture and tone improve within a few weeks.
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Working in a similar vein are polynucleotides, biostimulators that nudge collagen and elastin production into a higher gear. Injected into the skin, they encourage it “to hydrate and restore itself, making it healthier, rather than just filling and fixing it temporarily”, Dr Daniel Hunt, of Ouronyx in St James’s, central London, says. He uses a brand called Ameela because it offers varying strengths of the injectable for use in different areas of the face, from the delicate under-eye area to the more robust jawline. The beauty of the product, he says, is its longevity. “Yes, the result is plumper, tighter, brighter skin, but it’s also about skin quality and health,” Hunt says. “And that’s what people are looking for now, they want to future-proof their skin and look better, not different.”
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Every product on the block, it seems, has been built to improve cells’ longevity. The latest of these harnesses NAD (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide), a coenzyme found in every cell in our body but which depletes over time. A 2020 scientific paper, which studied the clinical evidence of its use for conditions such as diabetes, Alzheimer’s disease and skin issues, reported that when used cosmetically, increased levels “can improve measures of photoageing and play a key role in DNA repair”. Used in skin preparations, the active form, NAD+, has been shown to inhibit inflammation (which can cause signs of ageing), while promoting healthy cell turnover and repairing existing damage.
Like exosomes, NAD+ can be found in some skincare, but the most effective way to absorb it is through a drip. The treatment is popular in New York, where users claim to feel immediate effects of boosted energy, clearer thinking and bouncier knees. If you’ve ever tried a vitamin drip, this is a little more potent: expect to feel some surges of energy during the hour you’re hooked up, or even a little woozy as the chemicals make their way through your veins. It might sound sci-fi, but so did Botox 30 years ago — and look at us now.
Three sessions of ExoTech over six weeks, £1,600, drdavidjack.com; two treatments of Ameela injectables two weeks apart, £950, ouronyx.com; one NAD+ drip, £490, optimisehealth.com
